Subotiv
The village of Subotiv, which is situated seven kilometers from Chyhyryn, was the place where Khmelnytsky would go to stay to find some respite from the business of ruling. There was a garden, even a little zoo and an apiary to entertain the Hetman.
The Hetman’s estate in Subotiv used to belong to Khmelnytsky’s father Mykhailo who was a sort of the local governor with the power of presiding in court. Mykhailo was a military man and he died in a battle that was fought in distant Rumania. Bohdan inherited the estate in Subotiv after his father’s death.
Subotiv in the time of Khmelnytsky was a well fortified place complete with a citadel and defensive walls. From Subotiv it was possible to control the road of a strategic importance in the vicinity of the village. Access to Chyhyryn could be gained only through Subotiv. Its location made Subotiv a stronghold well protected by such geographical features as the River Tyasmyn and the hills. Under the citadel there were underground rooms and corridors dug in the ground for all sorts of contingences. The villagers had guns in their possession and could join the garrison in fighting any invading force. Neither the Tartars nor the Turks ever risked attacking either Chyhyryn or Subotiv at the time of Khmelnytsky’s Hetmanship.
The citadel in Subotiv occupied an area of about two hectares — it is practically all so far that archeological excavations have managed to discover. Future excavations will no doubt unearth a lot more. It is known that Khmelnytsky’s eldest son Tymosh had a palace in Subotiv and one hopes that archeologists will bring to light artifacts that will considerably expand our historical knowledge. Unfortunately, a lot of artifacts must have been lost when in the soviet times a collective farm was established and a road built within the territory that had once used to be a part of Khmelnytsky’s estate.
Subotiv can boast only a couple of architectural landmarks that date from Khmelnytsky’s time. The most important of them is the Illinska Church. Incidentally, the representation of this church can be seen on the 5-hryvnya bills of the Ukrainian currency. It is known that Khmelnytsky was buried in the church but what happened with his remains later is not known — according to some historical sources they were burned when the Poles occupied Subotiv; other sources say that Cossacks had removed Khmelnytsky’s remains before the Poles captured the village and re-interred them elsewhere. Most of historians are of the opinion that Khmelnytsky’s remains must have been interred somewhere in the vicinity of Subotiv.
Another remnant of Khmelnytsky’s time is the foundation of a tower with a well sitting right next to it. The well is believed to have been sunk to provide Khmelnytsky with good water. The water from the well is still good to drink.
Visitors to Subotiv can have an excellent meal at the Hetmanska korchma Restaurant whose interiors were designed to remind patrons of the Cossack times of old. In fact, Hetmanska korchma offers comfortable hotel accommodation as well. The Hetmanska korchma hospitality complex is complete with an old-style windmill, Cossack canon, and a small Cossack-theme museum.